For most women, applying makeup is a quintessential part of the daily routine, one
of life's little necessities. But what you may be surprised to realize is just how
far back this beauty ritual actually goes — and just how much it's really shaped
our culture.
ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS: THE ROOT OF ALL STYLE
The origin of makeup dates back to 4000 B.C. Both Egyptian, men and woman accentuated
their features with rouge, powders and "eye paint" known as kohl, a powdery mix
of soot and metal, used to define eyes, lashes, and brows. This early makeup helped
to minimize the desert sun's reflection, and some believed that eye paint helped
to ward off the evil eye — a superstition that your soul was captured when your
reflection was cast in another person's eyes.
Makeup spreads — over borders and time
The ancient Greeks continued the tradition of makeup, incorporating more plants
and minerals into formulas, and spread its use beyond the Mediterranean. By the
start of the Christian era, cosmetics such as eye makeup, powder and rouge were
mainstream throughout the Roman Empire until its fall in the 5th century A.D. Few
cosmetics survived, that is until the Middle Ages, when the crusaders returned from
the East bringing back exotic cosmetics and perfumes.
Powder makes its mark in the Elizabethan Era
Pale skin was an essential component of courtly beauty for Elizabethan females.
Records indicate that skin whitener debuted in the early 1500s, and was quickly
adopted as a makeup must-have, especially among the nobility. Whitening treatments
ranged from egg shells and mercury to a paste mixture of vinegar and white lead,
which some authors of the time warned could make the complexion "grey and shriveled."
Beauty shows its face in the Renaissance
As arts and culture flourished in the Renaissance, so did cosmetics across Europe,
with Italy and France paving the way. Although the custom was exclusive to royalty
and aristocracy at first, by the 18th century, use of cosmetics transcended all
social classes. As seen in many royal portraits, eye makeup was overshadowed by
white face powder and scarlet lips.
Vanity in the Victorian Age
The Victorian Age marked a rebirth of glamour, prompting the desire for lush, alluring
eyelashes. In fact, pale lashes were actually considered a birth defect! But even
though makeup in general was frowned upon by conservative high society, many women,
especially the French, continued to use it on the sly. Some even created their own
homemade mascaras, utilizing ashes, elderberry and even castor oil. Unfortunately,
none were ever brought to market. That is until 1840, when Eugene Rimmel, a London
perfumer, invented the first mascara. Several imitations would soon follow.
Modern-day mascara is born
By the turn of the century, makeup gained in popularity, thanks to major advancements
in photography and compact mirrors, both of which helped women see themselves in
a whole new light. It was this idea that inspired American chemist, T.L. Williams,
to take mascara one step further. In 1913, he created the first modern-day mascara,
by mixing coal dust and petroleum jelly (Vaseline®) into a cake form
applied by brush — an idea he got from his sister. Williams named the product Maybelline®,
a combination of his sister's name (Mabel) and the product's main ingredient, Vaseline.
Lipstick landmarks
It wouldn't be long before lips were in vogue, and makeup technology and style were
each quickly catching up. In 1915, Maurice Levy invented the metal lipstick container,
which eventually became available in stick, liquid and salve forms. Metal lip tracers,
which functioned as stencils for the mouth, were also developed in the 1920s to
help perfect the lipstick application process. Lip color trends in the early 1920s,
which drifted toward deep red, orange and plum, eventually gave way to lighter colors,
including rose and raspberry, later in the decade.
Go big in Hollywood
The 1920s also gave way to important beauty breakthroughs, including the first eyelash
curlers, eyeliner pencils, and false eyelashes. Soon after, most Hollywood actresses
from Marlene Dietrich to Bette Davis were donning thicker, fuller lashes — bringing
the look from the big screen to the mainstream. And the look continued flourishing,
even throughout the Great Depression.
A new style takes shape in London
The next big milestone for eyes came in 1957, when cosmetics maven Helena Rubenstein
introduced the "Mascaramatic", featuring the first mascara wand and tube applicator,
an invention that transformed mascara, not to mention the beauty and fashion industries.
It wasn't long before lash-full eyes became all the rage, turning Mod-model Twiggy
into a household name.
And the evolution continues…